So I go through the ritual of loading up camping gear and climbing gear, food and beer, try to ignore the last minute email from someone I'd hoped to meet ("In view of the dubious forecast, I've decided to cancel") and go through the complications of getting Erik, myself and a rental car together. It is 5:30 by the time we are heading south and the first twenty miles are bumper to bumper. We stop in Altoona to eat and I'm afraid that my lack of motivation must be showing. I hand over the driving to Erik and we power south into the rain.
Around 11:00 I finally dare to suggest that the rain may have stopped. Twenty minutes later we pull in to Seneca Shadows, get the tent up and I'm ready to sleep. A comfortable night but around 6:30 I'm awakened by the sound of rain on the tent. Here we go again.
When I finally show my face the rocks are invisible, shrouded in fog. I fix hot tea and oatmeal for breakfast. Slowly, the fog lifts and the summit comes into view. "It'll be dripping wet", I tell Erik, "but we might as well go and see". Soon we are hiking up to the base of the West Face. Given the weather, and Erik's lack of experience, I think we'll head for Old man's Route (5.2) today. We are not the only party with the same idea.
We'll follow a family of three: father, son, and mother. "Does he enjoy it?" asks Erik. "He will have enjoyed it when he gets back down" replies the father. Now it is our turn and as soon as I put my feet to the first pitch my hesitations are gone and I know this will be a great day. The rock is drying, the sky is getting more blue, and this mellow pitch will be a fine one for a new climber. It seems like no time at all before I am at the belay and watching the family ahead of us negotiate the chimney on pitch 2.
My first day's climbing, on Tryfan in North Wales, took me at one point up a slimy chimney and the thought makes me smile as I see what lies ahead for Erik. I make my way inelegantly to the top and put him on belay. Struggles ensue. After a reasonable interval I show mercy by offering to haul the pack. Now comes the fourth class ledge, then a final corner and through the slot out to the east side of the rock.
The South Peak is crowded, as usual of a weekend, but it is not crowded with humans. A cloud of insects - gnats and hornets - has taken up residence there and to reach the summit involves moving cautiously through them and trying not to swallow too many. The bugs keep Erik too busy to enjoy the exposure on the summit and he doesn't even want to sign the register! I belay him back down and we leave the insects to their own devices - until the next party comes along.
We share ropes with the family and another party on the rappels. I pre-rig the system for Erik and then set off myself. I am going very slowly - using a new belay device, I set up the rappel system with too much friction. Halfway down I start worrying whether I rigged Erik's rappel correctly. I tell myself I know I did and continue to the ledge. Erik follows down. One more rappel puts us on the ground.
By now it is a beautiful sunny day. I don't begrudge the time sitting around waiting for the other parties to work their way down on our rope. This is a fine place to be. Although there is more rock to climb, food is calling me loud. Erik will take home memories of a classic day at Seneca.
I think he will be back.